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Vista do Empire State - High Line

Créditos - + Q Perfume Blog

Tenho um conceito de viagem que é muito particular meu. Independentemente de quanto tempo disponho para conhecer um lugar novo, quanto dinheiro posso me dar o luxo de gastar durante a viagem, ou se vou ter uma segunda oportunidade para voltar a visitar aquele país de novo, detesto a equação tempo≈dinheiro. Não consigo fazer viagens com grupos de turistas. Detesto aquele ônibus que faz tour pela cidade, detesto essa maratona na qual existe uma lista de lugares programados para serem visto, e não tenho essa necessidade turística de passar por todos os pontos famosos ou ícones do lugar...

Glória Kalil que me desculpe, mas o livro dela recém lançado sobre viagens, não combina com meu jeito de ser. No livro ela diz que todos devemos parecer turistas, e que tentar parecer com os nativos ou locais é esnobe. Discordo totalmente. Não me acho esnobe, mas vejo as minhas viagens de uma forma diferente da dela. Pra mim, viagens são oportunidades de vivenciar lugares. Eu preciso do meu tempo. Quero sentar e contemplar. Quero conversar com pessoas, quero conhecer os costumes. Uma vez na Grécia sentei horas com dois velhinhos donos de um restaurante perto de Plaka. Ouvir um pouco da história deles e dos ancestrais da família foi mais importante, e certamente mais interessante do que fazer o que todos os turistas estavam fazendo: se comportando como típicos turistas, comprando 100 camisetas inúteis por minuto, comendo churrasco Grego, e olhando no mapa onde era a próxima parada. O bucolismo das vielas de pedra e os restaurantes de comida caseira grega passaram desapercebidos em meio das pilhas de souvenirs.

Chelsea - W 22nd st. between 9th/10th

Créditos - +Q Perfume Blog

E assim foi a minha viagem para Nova Iorque. Aluguei um apartamento no bairro do Chelsea em Manhattan (um estudio em uma townhouse como eles chamam), e resolvi fazer exatamente o contrário do que Glorinha manda: Viver o dia-a-dia do nova-iorquino. Me comportei tanto como nativa que a um certo ponto achei que realmente pertencia àquela cidade. Aposto que outras pessoas que dividem a paixão pelos perfumes fariam uma lista de perfumarias para visitar ou uma lista dos perfumes para comprar. Não fiz nada disso. Deixei rolar. Vivi o carpe diem em sua mais pura forma. As lojas surgiram, assim como os perfumes também.

O estúdio fica numa das mais bonitas e interessantes do bairro. Tudo acontece nela. Até filmagens de seriados famosos como Law & Order. Nela estão localizados charmoso hotel boutique The Gem, o delicioso restaurante-mercado Foragers City Grocer e o bed & breakfast gay Colonial House Inn.

Os ginkgos gigantes enfileirados nas calçadas trazem um elemento verde e sereno para uma cidade tão urbana e tão intensa como Nova Iorque. De dia o vento sopra por entre os galhos espalhando as folhas na calçada. Este é o som do outono!
Em dias mais quentes o cheiro de urina se combina com o perfume das flores dos canteiros. Já nos dias de chuva, o verde refrescante dos ginkgos, pinheiros, ciprestes e repolhos gigantes dos canteiros ficam mais evidentes.
Um dos meus passeios matutinos preferidos no bairro vai em direção ao pier, subindo para o High Line.

High Line

Créditos - + Q Perfume Blog

O High Line é um parque público construído em uma antiga linha histórica do transporte ferroviário acima das ruas de West Side de Manhattan, mantido e operado pelos Amigos do High Line. O grupo foi fundado em 1999 por moradores da comunidade, e lutou por sua preservação e transformação num momento em que a estrutura histórica estava sob a ameaça de demolição. O parque é mantido como um espaço público extraordinário frequentado por turistas do mundo inteiro e alguns moradores do bairro.

High Line

Créditos - + Q Perfume Blog

O projeto paisagístico do High Line é inspirado nas paisagem espontâneas que cresceram entre trilhos depois que os trens foram desativados em 1980. Atualmente no parque podem ser encontrados mais de 300 espécies de plantas perenes, gramíneas, arbustos e árvores - escolhidos por sua rusticidade, adaptabilidade, diversidade e variação sazonal de cor e textura. Algumas das espécies que originalmente cresceram ao longo da linha ferroviário são encontradas no parque ainda hoje. Andar pelo parque em sentido ao Meatpack District é uma experiência olfativa fantástica.
A brisa doce-salgada do Rio Hudson, misturada com o cheiro de relva coberta de orvalho, a terra úmida, e a madeira molhada secando com os primeiros raios de sol é simplesmente um perfume que eu jamais esquecerei. Pensei em Hindu Grass de Nasomatto, Terre D'Hermés, Un Jardin sur le Toit (tb Hermés), Absolue pour le Matin de FK...
Sentar nas espreguiçadeiras do solário, de frente para o pier, ouvindo o som da água na instalação interativa é muito relaxante (entre a 14th e 19th - Diller - Von Furstenberg). Pensei em L'Eau Par Kenzo, Bois D'Iris de Van Cleef.
Logo em seguida o aroma dos cafés expressos, chocolates quentes, pães e sanduiches (entre outras comidinhas de rua) sobem pela a escadaria e convidam para um momento degustação. Na verdade, passei batido, pois todas as vezes que eu estive no parque, todos os lugares, em todas as horas do dia tinham filas de pessoas aguardando pra fazer pedido. Tem um restaurante que parece ser mais bacana no terraço - chamado Terroir, mas como o High Line termina no Meatpack District, aconselho deixar para saborear a comida do bairro lá embaixo mesmo. The Standard Grill, Pastis, Spice Market são algumas sugestões.

Continua em breve...

Existem muitas maneiras de deixar um ambiente perfumado. Uma das preferidas dos brasileiros são as velas perfumadas. Além de conferirem uma atmosfera especial interessante, dispersam fragrância de forma homogênea e por tempo prolongado (não necessitando de reaplicação). Já os copos podem ser reutilizados de maneira criativa ou como objetos de decoração.

Atualmente podemos encontrar no Brasil marcas de velas importadas de alta qualidade com fragrâncias muito requintadas, que antigamente só podiam ser compradas no exterior. Selecionei aqui algumas velas que se destacam pela sua qualidade aroma e design:

1.Candle Bouge Incense Kyoto, da marca francesa Comme des Garçons (Sergio K): Kyoto é uma jornada espiritual para os templos serenos da cidade conhecida como o coração do Japão. Notas esfumaçadas de incenso se combinam com notas secas e amadeiradas de cedro da Virgínia e madeira Teca, num fundo âmbarado e terroso de patchouli e vetiver. Notas de café também foram adicionadas nesta fragrância para dar um toque aconchegante e elegante.

2.Também da Comme des Garçons (Sergio K), a vela perfumada CDCG2 Man Candle traz uma fragrância urbana que encantará o público masculino, com notas de incenso, flor de açafrão, noz moscada, kumquat, menta, raízes de vetiver, madeira, mogno e couro.

3. A marca Rituals apresenta uma linha de velas de altíssima qualidade, porém a vela Hamman Secret Candle se destaca pela combinação refrescante e ao mesmo tempo energizante de notas de alecrim e eucalipto. O que a princípio pela descrição pode parecer o cheiro da velha sauna, na verdade revela uma fragrância extremamente aromática e elegante, que lembra as salas exóticas de Hamman do Oriente Médio.

3. O hotel Costes passou a comerciar as fragrâncias que antes somente perfumavam o lobby e os quartos. O luxo do hotel já pode ser trazido para as casas brasileiras com a vela batizada com o nome da marca Costes (Sergio K). A elegância atemporal desenvolvida pela perfumista Olivia Giacobetti, vem em notas de rosas, louro, pimenta, madeiras orientais, sementes de coentro, incenso e almíscar. A marca possui uma linha com quatro fragrâncias.

4. A marca Voluspa (Esther Giobbi, Coisas de Dóris entre outros) é americana e a queridinha de muitas celebridades. Desenvolvidas em massa de côco e damasco, é ecologicamente correta. Com uma linha muito extensa de 50 fragrâncias, indicamos a Orangerie D’Azhar, inspirada no litoral da Espanha, onde encontra-se a exuberante encosta Del Azahar,com fragrância de flor de laranjeira, Pomegranati Patchouli, com notas de frutos de romã maduros, patchouli e mais de 20 tipos de pimenta, e Gardênia Colonia.

5. A marca francesa Quintessence (Esther Giobbi) traz uma linha de fragrâncias muito requintadas, porém com um preço mais alto. Para atmosfera de chalé de inverno - Diablerets, com notas de cedro, cipreste e musgo de carvalho; para uma atmosfera romântica - sensual – Ishara, com notas de ylang, jasmim e tuberosa. Algumas velas da marca são apresentadas em vasos criados pelo artista Eric Schmitt. São peças muito bonitas em vidro de Murano.

Aqui vai a dica – Coloque a vela perfumada sempre num local mais centralizado dentro do ambiente que deseja perfumar para uma dispersão bem homogênea. Acenda a vela sempre com um pouco de antecedência se você pretende receber convidados, assim o ambiente já estará perfumado quando eles chegarem. Se você for deixar o ambiente, apague a vela, evitando assim um consumo desnecessário dela. E lembrando, não deixe a vela ao alcance de crianças.

Velas são ótimas opções de presente também. Agora que o fim de ano está chegando, vale a pena conferir essas dicas e presentear alguém que você estima com uma surpresa perfumada!

November 16th is the official launch of Kilian's new perfume collection called In the Garden of Good and Evil. Come check here all the details and my review of the perfumes BEFORE the launch!!

Here in this video you can get a small notion of how Kilian is present in every detail of the creation of his fragrances.

Inspired by the myth of the original sin, the new collection comes with 03 different fragrances called Forbidden Games, Kilian in the City of Sin, and Kilian Good Girls Gone Bad.

I had the amazing surprise at AEDES DE VENUSTAS in NYC last October when Miguel gave me the sample kit of the perfumes. Surprised because none of the Kilian's corners had them at that time. Aedes holds in the shop a lot of Kilian's fragrances and many other luxurious niche brands that I love.

Forbidden Game EDP by Kilian

FORBIDDEN GAMES embodies the spirit of a temptation that leads to total abandon.

The fragrance opens on a potpourri of fruits—Apple, Peach, Plum—spiced by Cinnamon bark from Laos. Then the perfume advances into a lush, exuberant floral heart—Bulgarian Rose Orpur, Geranium Bourbon, and Midnight Jasmine—before disappearing slowly into a sweet confection of Madagascar Vanilla, Laotian Honey and the spellbinding resinous oil of Opoponax.

+ Q Perfume Blog review of the fragrance: Oh no! One more Tutti-frutti fragrance for teenagers! As I am not a fan of peachy fragrances, besides the ones I have already mentioned here in the blog, this is no exception (Pêche Noir is one)... I washed my arm 5 minutes after the fragrance was applied...sorry to say Kilian...But Forbidden it is for me, as in FORBIDDEN IN MY CLOSET!

In the City of Sin EDP by Kilian

IN THE CITY OF SIN, a place of extreme temptation where every street corner offers the possibility of impromptu encounters and seductions.

The perfume opens with an explosion of Bergamot from Calabria, pink Peppercorns and Cardamom from Guatemala. The perfume then evolves into a heart of Apricots and caramelized Plums held in check by the Turkish Rose Absolute. A light haze of Indonesian Incense entrances and then lends a profound depth, further sustained by Atlas and Virginia Cedar woods and rich Indonesian Patchouli.

+ Q Perfume Blog review of the fragrance: Exquisite opening of citrusy notes warmed with a pinch of spices. I loved it a lot. I may be wrong but I smell cumin too. It is a delicate fragrance; bringing a a close to the skin kind of intimacy. I don't see here lovers going dirty in a dark corner or alley...sorry. On the contrary, I see here a very polite person inviting you in the most elegant way to engage into a discrete love affair. But not a sinful one, a loyal, beautiful enduring love affair.

This is the fragrance I liked the most of all three. Calice Becker, needless to mention. As Kilian's jewels were designed by her, this one is not an exception! It contains the Bulgari Black discretion factor - click on the name for a comparison.

Good Girl Gone Bad by Kilian

GOOD GIRL GONE BAD typifies a special sort of woman. A perfume that represents a kind of voluptuousness beloved by Kilian: sensual and unrestrained. A woman who is game for anything in the world of love, of desire, of naughtiness. It opens on the fresh innocence of the petals of Jasmin Sambac and the apricot sweetness of Chinese Osmanthus. But that feminine ideal does not continue to fool anyone for long. Letting go of their demure appearances, the flowers toss off their inhibitions and reveal the other, decadent side of themselves. The Rose of May gives off its honeyed heat. The Indian Tuberose nakedly exhibits its milky roundness, while the narcotic sensuality of Egyptian Narcissus surges forth, uncontrollable and deliciously haunting. Notes of Virginia Cedar and Amber open up and try to assert their dominant character in order to contain that outpouring of opulence, but they never succeed in taming it completely.

The tension is palpable; the addiction exacerbated; the pleasure consummated.

+ Q Perfume Blog review of the fragrance: It is indeed voluptuous as it is a bombastic white floral bouquet perfume. Chic, hypnotic, intense, and somehow it does contain a fresh naivité of lolitas. I would wear it only at night, and in small doses, unless you are have the diva style of course. A fantastic fragrance for brides I must add.

I also found more of a good behaved high society chic in this fragrance than a bad one...

It is a lovely perfume, but not my favorite floral...By the way, I have seen this before. I don't recall at the moment which perfume it is, but as soon as I figure it out I will tell you! It has something of Nuda by Nasomatto for sure, and the doll hair note (probably the lolita touch blooms from it)...but I have seen it before somewhere else...

Each bottle includes a white clutch embellished with a goldstone snake detail.

(photos of the fragrances and descriptions - credits for Bergdorf Goodman/photo of the white clutch - credits - Elle Magazine)

Although I find Kilian very good looking and sexy, I find his picture in this campaign with the message "F. me, I am delicious" a bit too much Tom Ford-y...but this is me...I like men to look sexy, seductive, not bitchy...
Maybe there is a contest after all, of the sexiest show-off in the perfume industry? In that case, I vote for number one Pierre Guillaume of Parfumerie Générale and his sexy pics in facebook, half naked! Gorgeous! And you?

O mercado de Chelsea no Meatpack District

Créditos - + Q Perfume Blog

No meu último artigo, começamos um passeio olfativo pela Big Apple (clique AQUI para ler). Andamos pela W22th no bairro de Chelsea, seguimos pelo High Line em direção ao Meatpack District.
Hoje vamos retomar começando pelo próprio MPD, que atualmente é dos dos bairros mais bacanas de Nova Iorque, e o local frequentado por fashionistas e por aqueles que gostam de luxo e boa comida.
O nome MeatPack Distric vem de outra época, fazendo referências aos frigoríficos antigos que distribuíam carnes para a cidade toda, e que foram fechados no final dos anos 80. Atualmente o local foi interamente revitalizado, e os galpões substituídos por restaurantes, clubes, bares, hotéis, lojas e boutiques de luxo. Ficou o chão de paralelepípedo antigo - portanto aconselho não sair de salto alto, apesar de o bairro ser fashionista ao extremo. procure uma opção chique, mais baixa.
Não vamos entrar no Chelsea Market ou cair na noitada (super recomendada nesta área com muitos bares e clubes noturnos como o famoso Cielo). Eu sei, eu quase fiz isso aqui no artigo...mas o assunto do blog não ee turismo, e sim perfumes...Vamos então, seguir a rota dos perfumes!

Se você gosta da marca Zadig e Voltaire, a flagship store (loja conceito dos Estados Unidos fica no MPD) pode ser encontrada na Washington Street, no número 863. Lá você poderá conferir os perfumes da marca, sendo os últimos lançamentos Tome I La Purete for Her e Tome I La Purete for Him. Eu amo os frascos dessa marca. São urbanos, de linhas simples, e deliciosos de passar a mão. Francamente o perfume desaponta um pouco. Achei voltado para um público mais adolescente, menos exigente. Me parece conflitante com a marca, pois as roupas são de muito bom gosto. Lindíssimas. Talvez o conceito "menos é mais" funciona em design, mas não funciona tanto nodesenvolvimento de fragrâncias. O menos se apresenta como menos mesmo, insosso, desnecessário. Mas vale a pena conferir de qualquer forma.

Continuando por ali, você irá encontrar as lojas das marcas de Comme des Garçons (a loja de presentes do hotel The Standard tem as fragrâncias, a flagship não), Diane Von Furstenberg, Bond Nº9 ( a loja é pequena - a da Bond Street é a flagship), Kiehl's, La Perla, Hugo Boss. Também no pedaço a conhecida Sephora, e a Jeffrey, com muitas opções de perfumes. Na Sephora provei o perfume novo da Lady Gaga (que deveria chamar KAKA. Aproveitei para me deliciar com o Violet Blonde de Tom Ford. Comprei meu Prada Candy e me arrependi. No freeshop estava bem mais em conta...
Depois de circular bastante, a rota de ouro é seguir em direção ao Greenwich Village, para a famosa Bleecker Street. Podemos comparar o bairro dos Jardins em São Paulo com esta rua. Tem de tudo um pouco, mas do bom e do melhor! Nesta região está o famoso Blue Note Jazz Clube, o The Bitter End Rock Club (ícone há 51 anos na cidade) e o Caffe Reggio (dito o local onde foi servido o primeiro capuccino na América - 1927).

Diptyque NYC

Créditos fotográficos + Q Perfume Blog

Diptyque NYC

Créditos fotográficos + Q Perfume Blog

Na Bleecker Street você vai poder visitar a loja lindíssima da Diptyque, e ficar literalmente de boca aberta com o luxo e bom gosto da marca. Eu mesma fiquei lá mais de uma hora! Os vitrais, o candelabro, os perfumes...Fiquei alucinada!
Acabei comprando o último lançamento - Volutes EDT - que ainda não resenhei (aguardem!)
Na mesma rua você vai encontrar a loja da Joe Malone, Fresh (de sabonetes), Bond Nº9 (mais uma!), Ralph Lauren, L'Occitane, entre outras.

Aedes De Venustas

Crédito + Q Perfume Blog

Reserve um tempo maior para visitar A LOJA DE PERFUMES AEDES DE VENUSTAS na Christopher Street, número 9. Lá procure por Miguel, e prepare para sacar o cartão de crédito, por que você vai encontrar todos os últimos lançamentos das marcas de nicho.
Sugiro ir na loja de manhã ou logo depois do almoço, para depois seguir para o bairro do Soho. Nossa próxima parada perfumada.

Continua...

In April this blog has announced on first hand the opening of Chandler Burr's Scent Exhibition at MAD NYC - Click HERE to read all about it, and click HERE to read more detailed information from the NEW YORK TIMES). The opening was scheduled for NOV, 13 but sadly, due to Sandy, it was postponed to NOV, 20 as he told me and as the NYT informs. The museum website gives a different date - NOV, 29th, so please call the museum to be sure of the date of the opening!

MAD Location

2 Columbus Circle
New York, NY 10019

info@madmuseum.org

212-299-7777

Museum Hours

Tuesday to Sunday from 11:00 am to 6:00 pm
Thursday and Friday from 11:00 am to 9:00 pm

The good news are: A beautiful catalogue is on the way and pre-orders can be made already!

The catalogue will be sold for $250. There are only 1,000 catalogues, so if you are interest, you should hurry! Members of the museum will get 5% discount only.

The catalogue will have 11 of the 12 works of olfactory art that will be presented at the exhibition— Only Chanel Nº5 was not included, but don’t ask me why – Chandler did not tell me.

We are also not sure if the catalogue can be shipped internationally, so this info must be checked by contacting the museum.

About the catalogue flacons - Each work comes in a 5ml vial.

I have received a preview of the catalogue, so I am posting here for you guys to have a general idea – one of more details might change a bit, according to Chandler.

Photo credits: MAD + Chandler Burr

The works included in the exhibition (+ Chanel Nº5) and in the catalogue are:

01 Romanticism

Jicky

1889

Aimé Guerlain

Lent by Guerlain

02 Abstract Expressionism

L’Interdit,

1957

Francis Fabron

Lent by Givenchy and Givaudan

03 Early American School

Aromatics Elixir

1971

Bernard Chant

Lent by The Estée Lauder Companies and International Flavors and Fragrances

04 Industrialism

Drakkar Noir

1982

Pierre Wargnye

Lent by l’Oréal International Flavors and Fragrances

05 Surrealism

Angel

1992

Olivier Cresp

Lent by Clarins and Firmenich

06 Minimalism

L’Eau d’Issey

1992

Jacques Cavallier

Lent by BPI and Firmenich

07 Photo Realism

Pleasures

1995

Annie Buzantian, Alberto Morillas

Lent by The Estée Lauder Companies and Firmenich

08 Kinetic Sculpture

Light Blue

2001

Olivier Cresp

Lent by Dolce & Gabbana, P&G Prestige, and Firmenich

09 Neo-Romanticism

Prada Amber

2004

Carlos Benaïm, Max Gavarry, Clément Gavarry

Lent by Prada, Puig, and International Flavors & Fragrances

10 Luminism

Osmanthe Yunnan

2006

Jean-Claude Ellena

Lent by Hermès

11 Post-Brutalism

[itals]Untitled

2010

Daniela Andrier

Lent by l’Oréal and Givaudan

The catalogue will also come with a booklet with 11 essays about the Artistic Historical context of the scents, written by Chandler Burr himself.

To pre-order yours, click here in the MAD link.

Continuing to post about Chandler Burr's opening, here are some exclusive pictures in loco. CB sent to me today via e-mail and we will have more to publish in the near future.

So thank you Chandler for sharing this special moment with me; and thanks to the photographer Ric Kallaher for the great images, courtesy of the Museum of Arts and Design.

I know you guys want some more...but hey! This is the first week of the exhibit...let's not spoil the surprise for the NEW YORKERS!

Seguindo nossa caminhada perfumada pela Big Apple chegamos na nossa próxima parada: o bairro do Soho.

Assim como o MPD, o bairro do Soho é considerado uma das localizações mais fashionistas de Nova York, lotado de galerias, bares, restaurantes, hotéis-boutique e muitas, muitas lojas. O bairro tem um charme único, e eu não me importaria em ter voltado muitas vezes mais se eu pudesse se tempo não fosse tão curto.

Se você gosta de uma moda bohemian chic, uma das paradas interessantes é a loja da Nanette Lepore na Broome Street. Aproveitando, você pode experimentar o perfume da marca.

Já West Broadway, 345 você poderá entrar no mundo da Anthropologie. Além de muitas roupas, acessórios e coisas para casa, você vai encontrar várias marcas que constantemente aparecem aqui no blog, como INEKE, NASOMATTO, A LAB ON FIRE, entre muitas outras.

Babka Polaca de D&D

Também na Broadway vale a pena reservar bastante tempo pra uma experiência olfato-gustativa na Dean & DeLuca. Ao longo de sua história, Dean & DeLuca ganhou uma reputação como um ícone de cultura de Nova iorquina e estilo de vida. Reverenciado como um centro para a descoberta de novas tendências culinárias e tradições culinárias pouco conhecidas, Dean & Deluca é um local onde você vai se deliciar com queijos, anti-pastos, pães, doces, bebidas, sobremesas e um mundo olfativo que é de deixar qualquer um louco. O Santa Luzia em SP quando virar gente grande, será um D&DL!

Crédito fotográfico: AESOP

AESOP - Nolita
Créditos fotográficos : + Q Perfume Blog

Quando você estiver pronto(a) para deixar este templo gastronômico, vá andando em direção a Elizabeth Street. Nela você encontrará várias marcas interessantes, verdadeiros laboratórios olfativos, como a AESOP, uma marca australiana de produto de beleza que fica no número 232. Você também encontrará fragrâncias, mas o que mais chama atenção é o design da loja que lembra um laboratório de química. Daqueles que a gente frequentava no colegial. Seguindo na mesma rua, no número 233 você encontrará a famosa loja no estilo laborátorio, a LE LABO, da dupla francesa Fabrice e Edouard. Eles foram meus primeiros entrevistados internacionais aqui no blog, e os primeiros a me mandar perfumes para avaliar.

Le Labo - Nolita

Créditos fotográficos : + Q Perfume Blog

A loja é simplesmente MARAVILHOSA! Fiquei encantada. Tem tudo que eu gosto!! As cores, as texturas, os móveis...principalmente porque eu amo a combinação de cinza do concreto com o marrom do couro! A loja é a minha cara!

Le Labo - NoLita

Créditos fotográficos : + Q Perfume Blog

Os produtos estão arrumados de uma forma artística e impecável.
Para os meninos indico sentir o perfume de rosas com pimenta, o Rose 31. É um dos únicos perfumes de rosas para homens que realmente funciona na pele masculina.
No finalzinho da loja tem um cantinho mito aconchegante, no estilo escritório antigo. Achei a fusão de conceitos aparentemente opostos, laboratório moderno e escritório vintage, fantástica!

ATELIER COLOGNE - NoLita

Créditos fotográficos : + Q Perfume Blog

Andando mais para frente você encontrará no número 247 a loja da ATELIER COLOGNE, uma marca artesã cujos criadores de decendência italiana, Sylvie Ganter e Christopher Cervasel desenvolvem águas de colônia com a tradição das colônias clássicas, em concentrações diferenciadas, como as absolutas. Adorei esta loja pois nela você pode ver todo um processo de fabricação de embalagens personalizadas em couro.

Crédito fotográfico - The New York Shaving Company

Se você gosta de coisas antigas, de tradição, e qualidade de serviço, o número 202B de Elizabeth Street é ponto obrigatório. Voltar no tempo é simplesmente uma questão de abrir a porta dessa barbearia-loja chamada The New York Shaving Company.
Eu e o meu marido passamos pela loja e vimos um barbeiro fazendo um corte de cabelo num cliente sentado numa dessas cadeiras de couro antigas. Eu simplesmente não pude me conter e abri a porta, perguntando logo de cara se a presença feminina era bem vinda (algumas barbearias clássicas preferem que somente clientes homens frequentem o estabelecimento - o que é facilmente compreendido - nós temos nossa exclusividade nos cabelereiros!).
Enfim, Fabrizzio (o barbeiro italiano) estava cortando o cabelo enquanto nós fomos atendidos pelo irmão do John Scala, o dono da loja, que gentilmente nos serviu um whiskinho enquanto contava a história das barbearias clássicas, perguntou nossa opinião sobre Babe Ruth e o baseball, contou detalhes sobre como Fabrizzio começou a carreira de barbeiro (eu pessoalmente achei que ele era neto de algum mafioso que fugiu da Sicília - ele mal olhou na minha cara...). Enfim, passamos uma hora lá dentro e foi uma das melhores experiências nova iorquinas da viagem. Se você tiver uma grana extra (não é nada caro), vale a pena fazer a barba e cortar o cabelo lá (atenção: somente se você gosta de cortes clássicos). Eles possuem 3 fragrâncias diferenciadas que chamam de Gentleman's Cologne. Comprei o Elizabeth Street para o meu pai, com notas de manjericão, alecrim, verbena, junípero, coentro, canela, angélica, musgo, patchouli e vetiver. Ele gostou muito. É clássico, fresco e de boa qualidade. O creme para o rosto também é bem bacana, com uma fragrância que dura tanto quanto a da colônia.
Já na Prince Street 123, visite a marca de sabonetes e cosméticos israelense Sabon. Uma mistura de Lush com produtos de aromaterapia definem a marca. Eu gostei muito dos produtos com fragrância de violeta.
Na Lafayette Street, 285 você irá encontrar uma loja da Santa Mara Novella gigante. Eu pessoalmente prefiro a nossa no Jardins (São Paulo), que é pequena e clássica. A loja no Soho é bem moderna e possui toda a linha dos produtos SMN, mas me pareceu que pecam muito no atendimento.
Na Bond Street número 9 você encontrará a famosa marca nova iorquina que leva o nome do endereço - Bond Nº9. Confesso que quando passei por lá a loja já estava fechada, mas eu já tinha entrado nos outros endereços nessa viagem.
Enfim, ainda no bairro você encotrará lojas da Body Shop, L'Occitane, Korres, Bath & Body Works e muitas outras. O Bar Bossa com a magia contagiante do sorriso brasileiro, o famoso restaurante Balthazar, marcas famosas como Chanel, Prada, Helmut Lang, etc, etc, etc... se você é um fashionista, perfumólotra, ligadíssimo em lifestyle e muito bom gosto, separe dois dias para visitar o Soho.

Obs: fica expressamente proíbida a reprodução e uso de todas as fotos creditadas para + Q Perfume Blog em outros sites. Por favor respeite a obra de outras pessoas.

In one of my posts in a series of articles about my last trip to NYC (in Portuguese), I mentioned my visit to the Diptyque store at 377, Bleecker Street. This shop is everything a perfumista can wish for. Besides all the magnificent perfumes and candles, the attendant is extremely nice and helpful, and the decor is breathtaking.

I spent more than an hour there, and left the shop with Volutes.

Volutes is the newest launch of the brand (launched last October), and the collection offers both EDP and EDT versions. I also got a solid perfume, but frankly I am not sure now if they sell it or it was just a small gift they give to good clients like me :-)

The concept of the fragrance is rather unusual - a tobacco-honeyed perfume that would develop beautifully on both genders, and perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin constructed an elegant and modern perfume with a bold note of tobacco combined with waxy honeyed notes, spices, iris, immortelle, myhrr, opoponax, storax and benzoin. He is known for his expertise and love for oriental perfumes, and Diptyque has never had one before in its collections. So this is also unusual. It may sound odd when reading about it, but it is really a magnificent perfume.

Volutes EDP - Perfume sample

Photo Credit: + Q Perfume Blog

The duality of genders in this perfume concept was resolved with iris added for the ladies, evoking femininity, and a woody leathery- suede facet to express masculinity. This woody accent was elaborated with synthetic creamy notes of sandalwood, cedar and violets. The spicy tons were given with notes pink/black pepper and saffron. It contains energy, piquancy and elegance, and added a vibrant and rich touch to the perfume.

The EDP contains more irises and styrax and it is a more of a flowery sweet perfume. The tobacco was muffled by layers of loud silky powdery iris and gourmet notes.
I think the EDP version is more suitable for women, while the EDT will conquer men easily. Which is also logic as we are used to find these concentrations in the market divided by gender exactly this way

VOLUTES EDT by DIPTYQUE

Photo credits: + Q Perfume Blog

I sincerely loved the EDT version much more. It developed more beautifully on my skin. Although I am crazy about irises, in this case, I think the EDT is much more unique, while the EDP is average. That happens because in the EDT version the tobacco and saffron really stands out as a whiff of mysterious fumes of exotic lands. It is more masculine and yet, still very beautiful on women. I was in doubt what to buy, if my beloved Iris Ganache by Guerlain or Volutes, and in the end I decided that Volutes is different, less gourmet, more interesting.

The dry down of the EDP version of Volutes is somehow boring. It lacks surprises. I also take it men will prefer the EDT version because it is more aggressive; while the EDP is more round, more purrr-y.
In the EDP concentration, the tobacco takes a while to come to surface and when it does, it is quite shy. Also
vanilla takes over at some point, reminding that in this business nowadays, originality is hard to find.

VOLUTES by DIPTYQUE - Solid Perfume 4g

Photo credits: + Q Perfume Blog

The solid perfume is even softer and less spicy than the EDP. It has a waxy iris that feels like a wrap of a silky ribbon, and it feels more naive than the other versions.

Perfumed booklet

Diptyque gift I got!

Photo credits: + Q Perfume Blog

I will not extend myself here about the inspirations and history behind the concept because other blogs received the same press material I did, and have already published it.
This is just one more opinion about this amazing creation, that in my point of view, it is the best fragrance launched in 2012, till this date.
What can I say, I left the store with postcards, a perfumed booklet that when you turn the pages it makes them move and the air smell nice...I loved this perfume and it took me more than a month to publish the review because I was having a secret love affair with it. Now I am ready to share...

Ever since Esxence has been devoted in enhancing all the excellences from the Artistic Perfumery world and in offering a special opportunity to new talents.

In 2013, from March 21st to 24th at the Palazzo della Permanente, it's back with great news: on the occasion of its fifth birthday, it proposes a contest open to young perfumers, with the aim of finding the fragrance which best represents all the aspects that characterize the event and, in general, this sector.

An international competition to celebrate an important goal of the annual appointment with Bespoke Perfumery which in 2013 celebrates 5 years of dedication to offering to its public the best selection of international brands which represent an enthusiastic and passionate world.

The Scent of Esxence – 5 years of Excellence will be the name of the fragrance selected by 3 juries – Noses, Critics and Public – among those entering the contest from all over the world and inspired by the 5 pointed star: history, magic, music, art... Held in a perfume!

The Esxence team is not the only one believing and trusting in the talent of young perfumeurs. Our contest, with the aim of finding the fragrance for Esxence, The Scent of Esxence – 5 years of Excellence, moved the interest of many important people of the Artistic Perfumery world, who have welcomed with enthusiasm our request to select for us the applying fragrances. We can therefore reveal the names of the 5 members of the Jury of Noses, that will examine the proposals of our young participants, to decide the 10 semifinalists who will enter the second phase, the evaluation of the Jury of Critics.

Enrico Buccella, Mark Buxton, Patricia de Nicolaï, Maria Grazia Fornasier, Cécile Zarokian.

To read more:

http://www.esxence.com/en/contest/

To find more info about the brands participating this year:

http://www.esxence.com/en/edizione2013/brand.php

To download the application form for exhibitors:

http://www.esxence.com/en/espositori/scarica-la-domanda-di-partecipazione.php

From Esxence Press

Seems like it has been raining forever...
I left Brazil for a month and enjoyed winter in the Middle East. I found snow blizzards, scary wind storms and rainy days over there...floods to be more specific. I could not complain about it because when you are in a country where people name rain showers because it simply never rains, a flood is a sort of a divine blessing. But once back home I expected at least 2 more weeks of summer. Sun never showed up, and I am beginning to feel moody. So it is time to take the survival kit off the closet (raincoats, rubber boots, umbrella) and check the fragrances that can whiff the blues away!

But first, let's set the mood:

and now back to perfumes, listed in a randomly order:

1. Unknown Pleasures by Kerosene EDP- When you are feeling a bit down, a warm hug, a sexy kiss, a cup of a special blend of tea, a hot chocolate and a gourmet fragrance will do the trick. You should try all of them :-))))

Syrupy sweetness of honey, combined with zesty notes of citruses, classy notes of earl grey tea, cozy vanilla, tonka. To wrap up with a gourmet delight, notes of waffle cone. The idea here is to wear a fragrance that not only has an uplifting start, but also a cozy gourmet aura.

2. Les Nombres D'Or - Vanille EDP by Mona di Orio - Vanille is know for its comforting effect on everyone, so I picked one that is really luxurious.

Notes of petit grain, bitter orange, cloves and rum will warm your heart from the beginning. Amber, tonka, vanille, tolu, leather and musk will lead you to hours of pure coziness. Vetiver, sandalwood, guaiac wood and ylang ylang are notes that Mona added in this composition that made me smile each time I wore this fragrance.

1. Jonquille de Nuit by Tom Ford EDP - When I first tried this fragrance in New York it was also a rainy day and I remember feeling happier afterwards. Months later I got to smell it again in Israel, also during a cold rainy day and it made be happier again. It is super flowery, super chic and outrageously expensive - but worth trying...

Notes are: cyclamen, mimose, angelica, violet leafs, bitter orange blossom, narcissus, orris and amber.

3. Bamboo Harmony EDP by Kilian - here you won't find coziness. On the contrary, freshness is the beat. Bergamot, neroli and bigarade will bring un uplifting effect, while bamboo, white tea leafs will complete the refreshing - chic accord. Notes of fig leafs, oakmoss and spices will enrich this amazing perfume. Needless to say Calice Becker style!

4. L'Ambre des Merveilles EDP by Hermès - This fragrance embodies mystery, sensuality and warmth. A bit of stronger emotions seems to whiff away the grouchy state of mind. Besides, it contains a golden caramelized syrupy aura...

Notes of amber, labdanum, vanilla and patchouli.

5. Coco Chanel EDP by Chanel - Chanel fragrances have a luxurious aura, and it seems that you can't wear pajamas and Coco...so it is time to move the butt off the couch, put some nice clothes and make up and wear this glorious perfume - and DO SOMETHING with your life!

Notes are: coriander, pomegranate blossom, mandarin orange, peach, jasmine, bulgarian rose, mimose, cloves, orange blossom, clover, rose, labdanum, amber, sandalwood, tonka, opoponax, civet and vanilla.

Besides - I met this amazing guy during my flight back to Brazil, and he said he loves Coco Chanel...that put a smile on my face too...

6. Figuier EDP by Heeley - One of the most delicious fig fragrances I know. Fresh, green-y and pulpy. It is also very solar, very summer-y. I can almost smell shells and sand hidden under the fig note. It has a sexy drydown..skin like feel...You will close your eyes, smell your skin and think BEACH BEACH BEACH. If you like Heeley - you can also try Menthe Fraiche, which has a very cooling icy effect that wakes up anyone who is a bit drowsy from depression...

Notes here are:figs, rhubarb, white tea, cedar, dry grass.

7. Eau de 34 by Diptyque - Anyone knowing this brand is already smilling. Their fragrances are amazingly well build. The reason why I chose this fragrance is the fact that most of the notes composing this one do have a relaxing, calming, uplifting effect on people.

Notes are bitter orange, lemon, verbena, lavender, grapefruit, juniper berries, nutmeg, birch leafs, cinnamon, geranium, tuberose, cedar, incense, patchouli, labdanum and moss.

8. Safran Nobile EDP by Technique Indiscrete - Everything about Indian culture is colorful and happy. You imagine colorful saris, fragrant spices, amazing combination of fruits and piquancy in their savory dishes... The music, the visual, the smells...India makes me smile. Here Louison created a fragrance inspired by an Hindu wedding.

Citrusy fresh uplifting notes of lemon and oranges are combined with spices such as anise, cardamom and saffron. Jasmine (always related to the Hindu culture) is softened with notes of benzoin, patchouli and vanilla.

9. Dahlia Noir EDP by Givenchy - a powdery dusty floral perfume. Simply because it smells of J&J baby powder...so it feels dry...it feels cute...nothing more than that! Main stream perfume are like that...but in this case, it will do the trick. I promise you.

10. Thierry Les Parfums de Cuir - Angel - read a full review here. Also gourmet, also leathery...a complete treat for someone who needs to feel loved and happy...

So this is it darlings. If you are also locked at home because it is raining. If you are a bit down for any reason, or no reason at all, if you need a hug today...I blow you a fragrant kiss with any of this 10 scents I chose specially for you, because they made me feel better!

For Perfume Lists for rainy days already published: 2010 & 2011

To seat 39H, flight LH504.

"CLINT EASTWOOD: AHA! Joe may have played absolutely flawlessly the whole week we’ve been watching him, but I just spotted that he has a slight imperfection with his grip which makes him vulnerable to curve balls but not vulnerable enough to have actually missed a single pitch yet! Even though a good coach could correct the problem in a matter of weeks, my decision is that he can GO FUCK HIMSELF.

AMY ADAMS: But you’re nearly blind, how did you spot that?

CLINT EASTWOOD: I heard it. It sounded like someone hitting a curve ball improperly."

(extracted from the movie Trouble with the Curve by Clint Eastwood)

A baseball pitcher needs to know how to throw 4 balls: the basic ones which are the fastball and the off-speed pitch, and two breaking balls - the slider and the curveball.

You will see curveballs in the professional league only, or at least they are more common among professionals for the simple fact that it requires some degree of mastery to deliver it, and also because of the safety of the pitcher.

The secret to understanding a curveball is the speed of the air moving past the ball's surface. As the ball spins, its top surface moves in the same direction in which the air moves. At the bottom of the ball, the ball's surface and the air move in opposite directions. So the velocity of the air relative to that of the ball's surface is larger on the bottom of the ball.

What difference does that make? The higher velocity difference puts more stress on the air flowing around the bottom of the ball. That stress makes air flowing around the ball "break away" from the ball's surface sooner. Conversely, the air at the top of the spinning ball, subject to less stress due to the lower velocity difference, can "hang onto" the ball's surface longer before breaking away.

As a result, the air flowing over the top of the ball leaves it in a direction pointed a little bit downward rather than straight back. As Newton discovered almost three hundred years ago, for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. So, as the spinning ball throws the air down, the air pushes the ball up in response. A ball thrown with backspin will therefore get a little bit of lift. (explains the exploratorium in an adaptation of the book "accidental scientist", published by Henry Holt & Co, 1997)

There is a discussion whether the curveball is an optical illusion or not. Fact is that the spinning of the ball is what it makes it hard to hit, but this spinning results into an optical illusion that changes the position of the perceived break from where it is actually breaking. In a nutshell, it creates an illusion of direction.

Just as curveballs, perfumes create illusions. Perfumers combine chemical or natural ingredients to create olfactory representations, and this is what it makes them so special.

Let's take a popular fragrance as an example, such as ANGEL EDP by Thierry Mugler - launched in 1992. It became famous for being the first gourmet fragrance of the market. Did not sell well when it was launched, but today it became an iconic perfume of the 90's, and a winner of the FIFI Fragrance Hall of Fame Award (an award that recognizes a fragrance as a classic, being in the market for 15 years or more).

Mugler fragrances - Mugler website

Givaudan created for Thierry Mugler an illusion of tenderness, while Angel provoked an illusion of being in a cloud of cotton candy, caramels, chocolate, honey and vanilla to wearers around the globe. For the first time in history, one could crave a fragrance on the skin. This illusion was mastered by a combination of notes of melon, coconut, mandarin orange, cassia, jasmine, bergamot and cotton candy, honey, apricot, blackberry, plum, orchid, peach, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, red berries, rose, tonka bean, amber, patchouli, musk, vanilla, dark chocolate and caramel. (FRAGRANTICA.COM)

But what made Angel famous for, in times where women could not profit from botox, was the fact that it gave the illusion of youth. Mature women bought Angel because they actually felt younger wearing them.

Also iconic and from the 90's, Acqua di Gio brought a large dose of calone, a chemical odorant responsible for the sea-breeze note used in many fresh perfumes. Calone offered perfumers the possibility to create olfactory illusions of watery - airy, marine - smelling fragrances. Compositions with etherial abstraction. The illusion created offered the pleasure and the freshness one feels with a plunge into the ocean. Young men bought this fragrance because it created the illusion of lighter days, of the new modern man, of freedom and reconnection to Nature.

Another fascinating aspect of fragrances is not only the smell, but the textures they evoke. Perfumes can be leathery, silky, velvety, creamy, furry, harsh, smooth, thick, buttery, fluffy...
Perfumers can create illusions of textiles, so you will feel their touch.
We can't forget Donna Karan's Black Cashmere, can we? The reason why this fragrance is known by every perfumista is because of the soft warm touch of cashmere it evokes. You can actually feel like wearing cashmere!

Leather in perfumery evoke nobility, luxury, sensuality. It contains a mix of natural, primitive, sexual and yet of successful, aristocratic, military or adventurous connotations. It can bring illusions of coziness when combined with powdery or creamy notes. It can give illusion of manhood when associated with animalic or sensual notes, such as civet, ambergris or musk.

To be continued.
In the PART TWO I will continue to discuss olfactory illusions and representations.
I will also discuss the intrinsic relationship of perfumers and baseball players & curveballs and of course, what is the trouble with curve! Be connect!

If you haven't read part one yet, click HERE, before reading part two.

"Just as curveballs, perfumes create illusions. Perfumers combine chemical or natural ingredients to create olfactory representations, and this is what it makes them so special".

Obs.: Understanding here the term illusion as something that contains an olfactory awareness, it contains a sensorial abstract quality (effluvia), but no tangible or visual quality. Also understand the term illusion as a distortion of reality - as an example - a rose perfume does not represent an actual rose, but a illusion of a rose, an interpretation.

If perfumers are like baseball pitchers, what seems to be the Trouble with the Curve?

I have been hearing in the blogosphere, perfume forums, perfume groups or even outside the internet universe, things like "I am going to develop my perfume line", or "I bought a kit of scents and I am making perfumes", " I just finished a perfume making workshop and I will send you my perfume", or even things like "I know that if I would have the ingredients, I am sure that I could make better perfumes than the ones they sell today"...etc, etc...Perfume bloggers, perfume enthusiasts, perfume critics started to be adventurous and are developing fragrances.

Fact is, that with a developed sensibility and some knowledge of scents everyone could end up with nice, let's say "vetiver, incense or rose perfume". And they can eventually end up selling well, and the brand become the next hip indie. No doubt about it, I have reviewed a few here. But the bitter truth is that their perfumes will enter only to the little league category, and with time and some luck (or with the help of good reviews) get even to the Minor League. That means that these so called "self-tought" perfumers will learn how to pitch fastballs and off- speeds, but they won't have what it takes to pitch a curveball. They will not have the ability to create a classic, or an iconic fragrance. They will not be able to create illusions, but only perfumes that smell nice.

The Trouble with the Curve is that it needs trainning. Proper professional training. One does not pitch a curveball simply because it has a "good hand for baseball".

It takes time to learn the perfumer's profession. A couple of years of technical education (as in a degree in chemistry and a post graduation in perfumery - such as Isipca maybe); years of training ( of actually working in a lab to become a master perfumer);and a sensorial inner journey called experience of learning how to translate emotions, sensations and imaginary hedonic values into fragrances.

It takes a lot of training in the baseball field to get to the professional league and become, per say, a pitcher of the NY Yankees, or Dodger's (you name your favorite team)!

So don't get me wrong here. I am not saying that these perfumistas should leave the perfume making business because they are not good enough. I am saying something else: You have already the interest and the money to actually make a difference in the perfume industry, so go get your master in perfumery. Go learn how to pitch a curveball! We want to see you in the field pitching for the Yankees!

The second Trouble with the Curve is that, in perfumery, training is not the only necessary condition to create great fragrances. If the market is a baseball field, we haven't been seeing a lot of creative players these days.

Perfumes classics or hits have been slightly changed and named differently. Perfumes became very ephemeral, like fashion trends. As an example, lets take one of the latest trends in perfumery: oud. 1000s of brands ran to their perfumers to create the newest OUD fragrance. Oud this, Oud that...how many Oud fragrances were really creative compositions that could enter to the "Baseball Hall of Fame"? Name one fragrance where OUD was the essential component to translate or represent an outstanding illusion?

I leave you to answer that until the next game...

Franknweenie by Tim Burton

Les Miserables by Victor Hugo

If you think that both movies Frankweenie and Les Misérables, and fragrances like Tom Ford Noir, Coco Noir by Chanel, Bulgari Jarmin Noir L'Elixir, Armani Eau de Nuit, Boss Nuit pour Femme, Gucci Guilty Black, or even Bertrand's Enchanted Forest have nothing in common, you are not really following marketing trends. It might look like they dont have a connection, but in fact they do. They are all part of a trend that Li Edelkoort explains like nobody else:

“Romanticism is precisely situated neither in choice of subject nor exact truth, but in the way of feeling.” Charles Baudelaire

Since the dawn of time, black has a lot to tell, it expressed mourning, poverty, denial, revolt and it exalted the avant-garde and haute-couture. Both rive gauche and rive droite. From lacerated and studded leather to the perfection of the little black dress, from brutal bondage clothing to the gorgeous prom dress, from mods’ modest turtlenecks to the monks’ modern hoods, the same black made a lot of ink flow, black or almost black too. It is able to express love and romanticism as well as hate and racism, in equal proportion and with the same ardor.

Black matter will be forever engraved in our teenage souls; film noir, black coffee, the black jacket, pinot noir.

Today, black is lustrous and magnificent, swallow-tailed, raven or horsehair, is seen in lace of a domination mask, veil of seduction and burka of discretion. Black reflects opinions like a pollster of the air of the times. The surveys all agree; again, we vote for black. However, behind this dark veil hides a myriad of attitudes, divergent tastes and disparate characters.

In a chaotic century, which still cannot find its way, it seems that there is only one way out. One direction to take. In one way or another, we have to merge opposites and erase contrasts to embrace and exploit the idea of creative hybrids from various disciplines to finally bridge the gap between the two brains. To abolish bipolar thinking in favor of a universal and holistic reflection.

Suddenly, black seems to be the unifying of disciplines, the cloth becomes language, drawing pretends to be text, the volume is seen as flat, materials bristle, painting becomes textile, while the photo is thought of in monochrome and videos are selling like paintings. We are the witnesses of an artistic scene in fusion in which all the arts combine to make a single movement, a single vision and a single discipline addressing all the senses, suspended between dimensions.

As such, revisited romanticism can be seen as a reaction against reason, capable of enhancing the mysterious and fantastic. A romanticism to escape from reality and enter into the enchantment of dreams, finding the sublime in the morbid and millions in a skull. The vanity of fashion and design calling us from beyond the grave.

This is probably why black is coming back strong, because everything can be merged into it, anything can unite. Color mixing and blending genres, black becomes silent and dull, can absorb everything, and erase everything. Black sunblock. a way to move on, refocus and fade differences. Suddenly, the black becomes the flag of a political movement that does not yet exist, an altruistic movement is being born, a morality becomes capable of boosting creation outside of economic tracks, instead of suffering a cultural fatality.

To live our time, black establishes itself as a romantic expression, even frenetic. With a return to rural life combined with a deep respect for the ordinary spirituality, a return to a normal life. A romanticism to have great experience and feel a need to escape, a visceral craving of landscapes, seeing the horizons of one's life. A desire to disappear too, like an urgent need of anonymity. An abstraction as a retreat which becomes the study of black, material expressions, alarm cries. The icons commit suicide, forget themselves, disappear.

Following, the grand return of cloaks, redingotes, of long dresses and sweepers skirts. All underlined with boots and many hats. Painter shirts, cigarette pants, monk robes and terrorist hoods. We ironically mix all the exterior signs of religions to make a point of devotion.

So black draws life, silhouette and fate at the same time.

(extracted from The exposition - The Black Code - by Li Edelkoort)

Besides using words like Black, Noir, Nuit, Night, or black shinning flacons, or seductive and mysterious advertising ads, perfumers translated this trend by using odorants suggesting obscurity, mystery, the sensual aspect of the night, and romanticism.

In the composition of Enchanted Forest by The Vagabond Prince, Bertrand used black currant the main core of the fragrance, suggesting that when combined with the odor of the forest, it would result into a dark, mysterious and super natural aura that was never explored this way in perfumery.

In Coco Noir, Chanel brand reveals a black that is intimate, seductive and intensely brilliant, translated in a combination of notes of grapefruit, bergamot and a sumptuous blend of woods and resins.

In Oriflame Amber Elixir Noir, notes of patchouli, vanilla, amber, incense, benzoin provided a darker and more mysterious version of a night scent.

For Gucci, patchouli is the key ingredient for the duo that is said to aim fearless, shameless and unpredictable people. A frantic romance translated into a black version of the previous launches.

Researches have been publishing many essays and theories about the relationship between scents and colors. A vast majority of them agree that dark colors are related to oriental and woody fragrances. Also many florals (specially narcotic ones also give a sense of darkness - specially flowers blooming at night).

According to professor Brian Moran (expert in Business Anthropology), the black color in perfume advertising is related to femininity and seduction. In his work he presented tables with results of 20 years of research in the field of perfume advertising, and the shown results were such as: the notes associated to black are patchouli, sandalwood, jasmine, vanilla and musk/fragrances with this dark connotation are mostly launched during winter and autumn time by the perfume industry.

Shinning black in perfume advertising shows excellence, while black in general can be also used for exclusivity, and that is the reason why many limited editions come in black and gold colors.

So there you have it my dears. 2012 winter and many months to come in 2013 will be populated with "black" perfumes, for the same reason why the movie "Les Misérables" will ace many Oscars, or for the same reason that Frankenweenie is simply a must see. Because we are craving for black.

+ Q Perfume Blog - Valentine's Day - Perfume Choice

EAU DE FRÖEHLICHE - NEW EDITION

Photo credit: 100 & 1 Seife exclusively to + Q Perfume Blog

In times when love and romance have to compete with applications such as "Bang with friends" ...

For Christmas 2012 Erik Kormann from 100 & 1 Seife launched his first Eau de Fröehliche or translated to English - Eau de Merry - a gourmet treat for the senses with irises, chocolate,frankincense, rosewood, coriander, Frambione, musk, patchouli, cardamom, vanilla, tolu balm and coumarin. At that time I described the fragrance as "A hint of cacao, a hint of iris, a hint of cardamom freshness and you are smiling my dears! Eau de Fröhliche will make you look younger without turning you into a teenager. It will change your mood to a better one because it has a sweetness that is rich, without being boring. It will make you more attractive because it has a tenacious and a vivid spirit all the way till dry down". (you can read the full review by clicking on the link above).

It was indeed a cuddling olfactory experience that I could have enjoyed all year round if my sister would not have taken it from my collection with the most delightful statement "I have to have this, I am taking it home with me!" So she took it. Both versions - the EDP and the EDT. ;-)

Photo credit: 100 & 1 Seife exclusively to + Q Perfume Blog

Well, giving is rewarded with receiving...so this year Erik has send me his new edition of Eau de Föhliche.
Not a flanker thou... it is not the original formula adding this or that. It is a complete new perfume but with one common ground: frankincense.
Truth is that he launched it for Christmas 2012, but I was away from home, and that was the reason why I could not review it before. Frankly, it is a perfect gift for Valentine's Day!!!

If you are not interest in just banging with friends, or better saying, bootie calls or mean-less sex encounters, and you still believe in the romantic concept of sharing a special day with the one you love, make the most of it by presenting her/him with something to remember this day everyday! A perfume is one of the most wanted and most popular Valentine's presents because the loved person will think of you every whiff.

So why Eau de Fröehliche?

Because it is romantic and sensitive. Because it brings an exquisite combination of rose and black pepper, with a bonus minty finishing. Because not many rose fragrances are that fresh (it also contains bergamot). Because it is a rose perfume, but it has an urban beat. Because it has a smokey aura that is subtle, not pierce. It is a rock n' roll rose. And most of it, because it contains CATTITUDE! Meow!

Photo credit: 100 & 1 Seife exclusively to + Q Perfume Blog

If you need more reasons I have plenty! The bottle comes with this super cute purrr cat illustration by Jo Zarth. It has a fragrance concentration of 20%. It last longer enough to be hugged and kissed for many hours. It can be nice to both genders.

Eau de Fröehliche Nº1 was a cuddling perfume. So is nº2. Interesting how different concepts can bring the same idea, but with a different intention. One cuddles you more like a friend. This one will also hug you tenderly, but the hug is just the first move...

You can find and purchase Eau de Fröehliche in the brand's website: 1000 & 1 Seife.

Another rock n' roll cat!

Minha fascinação pela integração olfato-gustativa vem da infância. Quem nunca passou os dedos num livro Scratch n'sniff? Lembra? Aqueles livros com figuras de comidas e frutas que a gente arranhava com o dedo e sentia o cheirinho da ilustração? Eu ficava enlouquecida com essa idéia de poder arranhar um desenho de maçã e sentir o seu cheirinho...

Anos depois...

Em 1992 Angel EDP criado pela Givaudan para Thierry Mugler trouxe uma inovação para a perfumaria mundial. Pela primeira vez odorantes com aromas de alimentos foram compostos para criar uma fragrância da família Oriental, que posteriormente Michael Edwards passou a denominar como subfamília oriental "Gourmet".

Os perfumes gourmet de lá para cá se multiplicaram, e novos odorantes foram introduzidos pelas casas de fragrâncias. Notas de bebidas, refrigerantes, sobremesas e até notas salgadas de sal, leite, caviar entraram nas composições dos gourmets.

A integração cozinha - laboratório, ou melhor dizendo, paladar e olfato, foi se desenvolvendo e muitos projetos bacanas saíram do "forno", como o da marca francesa Laudurée que lançou uma linha de fragrâncias inspiradas em seus doces.

Chefs de cozinha lançaram perfumes. Perfumistas lançaram livro de receitas...

Vimos também um barman que traduziu composições olfativas como o Chanel Nº5 em coquetel (tastologie)...Empresas de bebidas também lançaram versões olfativas de seus produtos, como a marca de whisky Macallan, Vinhos Sonsierra, etc...

E quando a gente pensa que já viu de tudo um pouco...surge a marca americana Demeter de perfumes, que traz em seu portifólio fragrâncias estranhas como sushi, lagosta, cogumelo, vagem...

Pois é, segundo a filosofia olfativa de Luca Turin e da esposa Tania Sanchez, bacon é o cheiro que mais atrai os homens.

Na verdade, o cheiro do bacon já era motivo de interesse desde a década de vinte, quando John Farginnay, um açougueiro francês, quase que acidentalmente descobriu que ele podia aumentar o "humor" de seus fregueses com uma receita secreta que era composta de 11 óleos essenciais, e que cheirava como...Bacon!
Infelizmente em 1924 a receita foi queimada num incêndio e o negócio foi fechado. Anos depois a receita virou um perfume que hoje é vendido sob o nome Farginnay, em duas versões: a clássica, com notas de bacon, bergamota, laranja, melado de bordo, limão, grapefruit, pimenta preta, cedro, vetiver e madeira guaiac; e a versão gold, com notas de mandarina, bergamota, grapefruit, limão, noz moscada, pimenta preta e junípero.

Marcas de fast food resolveram dar um passo adiante no mercado de perfumes gourmets, e lançar suas próprias fragrâncias. Isso também não é bem uma novidade como parece!

Em 2006 os fabricantes do queijo Stilton lançaram seu perfume, que recriava o aroma pungente, frutado e terroso do queijo. O projeto comercial foi comissionado pela associação de produtores de queijo do tipo Stilton, com o intuito de aumentar o interesse do consumidor pelo queijo Stilton.

Dois anos depois a rede de fast food Burger King chocou a mídia e muitos apaixonados por perfumes quando lançou o seu perfume, que segundo a marca continha "o cheiro da sedução com um toque de carne na brasa".

No ano passado a rede de fast food Pizza Hut resolveu também se lançar no mundo da perfumaria. O perfume é resultado de uma pergunta lançada no facebook da marca: "Você ama o cheiro de uma caixa de Pizza Hut sendo aberta? Nós acreditamos que sim. Se esse cheiro fosse um perfume, qual seria o seu nome?"
O volume de respostas (feedback dos clientes) foi tão grande que a empresa resolveu comissionar o perfume, que supostamente tem um cheirinho de massa de pão, cartolina, talco e queijo.

Então meus queridos amigos e leitores, não se enganem achando que essas marcas esperam que as pessoas saiam por aí cheirando a hamburger, bacon ou pizza.
Se fosse assim, Lady Gaga, que já se apresentou no ano de 2010 no MTV Awards com um vestido feito inteirinho de carne...aliás todos os acessórios eram feitos de carne, teria lançado em 2012 um perfume com esse cheiro!
Isso são estratégias de marketing olfativo, simplesmente.
As únicas pessoas que eu vejo usando esses perfumes são aquelas que vivem numa larica constante! Para elas indico o perfume de maconha da mesma empresa que fabrica os perfumes de sushis - o Cannabis Flower, que segundo a marca é um perfume para usar e não para fumar!

E como nem todas as misturas olfato gustativas dão certo... fica aqui a minha opinião sobre uma tentativa de Thierry Mugler de novamente inovar no mercado de fragrâncias - Womanity EDP, com notas salgadas de caviar, é um perfume que não deu certo.
Mulher nenhuma quer comprar um perfume que vem com a mensagem subliminar de que cheiramos a peixe!

UNKNOWN PLEASURES EDP - BY KEROSENE (John Pegg) - LAUNCH 2013 - UNISEX (FEM)

Official Olfactive Notes: Honey, Earl Gray, Zing of Lemon, Vanilla, Bergamot, Caramel, Tonka, Waffle Cone (provided by MiN New York, sellers of Kerosene fragrances and Fragrantica). Price at MiN - USD140/100ml.

Although John Pegg, the owner of the brand, describes his fragrance as a walk down a street in a Manchester, in a cold day, listening to Joy Division, sipping a cup of warm London fog...and named the fragrance unknown pleasures...I would call it:

The MAD TEA PARTY (as in Alice's Adventures in Wondeland by Lewis Carroll)!!

In the book, the tea party had to be eternal because the Mad Hatter was being punished eternally by Time. John, our Hatter Perfumer, decided that we have to be whiffed eternally by tons of cups of notes of earl gray tea and bergamot marmalade. And when just when you think you can't handle that amount of sugar, here comes caramels and waffle cones!

Analisys of the Mad Tea Party chapter of the book, presented by sparknotes:

"When Alice discovers that Time is a person and not merely an abstract concept, she realizes that not only are social conventions inverted, but the very ordering principles of the universe are turned upside down. Not even time is reliable, as Alice learns that Time is not an abstract “it” but a specific “him.” An unruly, subjective personality replaces the indifferent mechanical precision associated with the concept of time. Time can punish those who have offended it, and Time has in fact punished the Mad Hatter by stopping still at six o’clock, trapping the Mad Hatter and March Hare in a perpetual teatime. The Mad Hatter, the March Hare, and the Dormouse must carry out an endless string of pointless conversations, which may reflect a child’s perception of what an actual English teatime was really like. Alice must adjust her own perceptions of time, since the Mad Hatter’s watch indicates that days are rushing by. However, the party has not moved past the month of March, the month during which the March Hare goes mad.

Though the tea party challenges Alice’s understanding of the fundamental concept of time, the Mad Hatter’s answerless riddle reaffirms Wonderland’s unusual sense of order. The riddle seems to have no answer and exists solely to perpetuate confusion and disorder. Some readers have suggested that the riddle does in fact have an answer: Edgar Allen Poe “wrote on” both the subject of a Raven and “wrote on” a physical writing desk. In Wonderland, chaos is the ruling principle, but a strange sense of order still exists. Though riddles need not have answers, language must retain some kind of logic. The Mad Hatter, the March Hare, and the Dormouse point out to Alice that saying what she means and meaning what she says are not the same thing. Alice has said that she cannot take “more” tea because she has not had any yet. However, as the Mad Hatter points out, Alice can indeed take “more” tea even though she has not had any, since “it’s very easy to take more than nothing.” The language games at the tea party underscore the inconsistency of Wonderland, but also imply that the ordering principles that govern Alice’s world are just as arbitrary".

Alice's Adventure in Wonderland is one of the many books written during the Victorian Era, a theme already presented in details here in the blog.

So what made me smile about John's creation, is not the smile he expected from me, as he described his perfume "sure to make any gourmand lover smile", but the fact that he succeed to create an URBAN version of a VICTORIAN PERFUME.

Don't jump to say "what is she talking about??", give me time to explain...

It is not a Victorian Perfume per say, because Victorian fragrances were delicate florals. It contains the vibe of Victorian Days. I see here the exodus of English families to the cities in the search for work. I see the crowds of Manchester streets (no Joy Division for me...). I see the Victorian afternoon parties. I see the madness of the Mad Hatter in the concentration of sugary treat and bergamot marmalade of this fragrance. I see tons of Reimer and Delair's vanillin (1876) combined with caramels and waffle cones...

Alice tried to fancy to herself what such an extraordinary ways of living would be like, but it puzzled her too much, so she went on: `But why did they live at the bottom of a well?'

`Take some more tea,' the March Hare said to Alice, very earnestly.

`I've had nothing yet,' Alice replied in an offended tone, `so I can't take more.'

`You mean you can't take less,' said the Hatter: `it's very easy to take more than nothing.'

`Nobody asked your opinion,' said Alice.

`Who's making personal remarks now?' the Hatter asked triumphantly.

Alice did not quite know what to say to this: so she helped herself to some tea and bread-and-butter, and then turned to the Dormouse, and repeated her question. `Why did they live at the bottom of a well?'

It also presents me a Victorian riddle. A charade. A question that does not necessarily has to have an answer...Where does he intend to go from here?

'At any rate I'll never go there again!' said Alice as she picked her way through the wood. 'It's the stupidest tea-party I ever was at in all my life!'

Just as she said this, she noticed that one of the trees had a door leading right into it. `That's very curious!' she thought. `But everything's curious today. I think I may as well go in at once.' And in she went...

It is not the stupidest tea party I ever been. Far from it. But it made me curious as well...

And just like Alice did, I think I will might just jump into the next fragrance of my random picks!

BELLE AU PARFUM DE OUD EDP - ESTEBAN (2012) - FEMININE

Official olfactive Notes: Mandarin, cistus, saffron, ylang ylang, Lys, nargamotha, oud, labdanum, patchouli. Sold for 90 Euros/50ml at 1000 & 1 Seife (sample provided by the shop via Erik K.)

Bohemians were outsiders who lived in an unconventional way and who did not care about society's approval. They were often described as vagabonds, wanderers, adventurers, or artists who believed in free love, frugality and poverty. The term emerged in France, when artists moved to neighborhoods where the rent was lower and where gypsies lived. I would say they were somehow the hippies of the 19th Century...

If Belle au Parfum de Oud was called by other reviewer's as a hippie - flower child fragrance, or had the aura of the woodstock days...I would say it does have the aura of freedom, peace and love, but with the european bohemian style, not a hippie one.

Natasha Poly - Bohemian Rhapsody for Vogue

It is a flowery-leathery French-y kind of fragrance. It has the simplicity of bohemian's life style. It has both a dirty and freshness that comes from the minty and dirty-chocolat-y notes of patchouli, not remotely reminding me of Marijuana as others noted. Hippies did not take showers at all, and were stoned from pot all day long. This is not BAPDO! It does not refer to pot or human filth.

It is unconventional in a sense that it is not rich nor a heavy oriental like many Ouds you have already tried last year. It smells cleaner than dirtier.

It contains a bit of the simplicity and frugality of bohemians. Flowery prints and leather jackets.
It has the vibe of a bohemian balade in Paris.

It has the happiness, the musicality and the colors of gypsy songs and clothes.

It is less wild than hippies. It is Bobo. More sociable acceptable. More commercial, more Western styled.

AMBER GRIS EDP - PIERRE BALMAIN - 2008 - FEMININE (SHARED)

First time when I smelled this fragrance I had a somehow thought of golf players.

Elegant men in cashmere sweaters and argyle socks, upscale country clubs with selected members...caddies holding leather golf bags, metal clubs, wood clubs...something elegant, quiet, something GQ magazine would approve...

Than it became a little bit louder...a caddy bagging the socialite in a private bungalow? Caddyshack style?

and finally it hit me! Pierre Balmain is to me just like Golf's love-and-hate experience to comedian and "golf-a-hole-ic" Larry David - click HERE for the entire article - New Yorker magazine.

First stage - anger - "There was a time when I was always angry on the course. Driving fast in the cart. Throwing clubs. Constantly berating myself. “You stink, four-eyes!"

Back to Ambergris EDP - "You are not a real ambergris fragrance, you say you are but you are not!! I will break this bottle... I must say the cap looks like a golf ball, but the perfume, not a hole-in-one! I am feeling cheated...

Second stage - denial -"The Anger phase lasted for years, and then I entered the next phase, Denial. “All I need are some lessons,” I told myself. “Why should everyone else be able to do it and not me? Why are they good? I’m coordinated. I have a jump shot! I can go to my left. Obviously I have it in me".

Ok, it is not a real ambergris but it is wearable...kinda nice...flowery, rubbery, slightly woody and slightly animalic...people bought it and gave sorta nice reviews... I am not even an ambergris fan...to much sex involved there...

Third stage - bargaining - "The third stage was Bargaining, and I did my share of that. “Please, God. All I want to do is hit the ball. What is it You want? Good deeds? Give me a swing and I’ll give You good deeds up the wazoo. I’ll help sick kids, the homeless . . . well, sick kids. I’ll stop all the mocking. I’ll give up cookies, coffee, coffee cake, cashmere".

All I wanted was to try to like an ambergris fragrance...a real one...what did I do to you Mr. Balmain? Give me one and I promise you a good review...pleeease?

Forth stage - Depression -"Then I drifted into the next stage, Depression. I was never going to be good. Never. Think what I could’ve done with all that time. Learned French. Piano. I’d be playing Chopin now if it weren’t for golf".

Never!!! this is never going to be good... I would be playing Chopin by now if I wasn't wasting my time here with this fake fragrance...

Last stage - "And now I find myself in the final stage, Acceptance. I will never be good. There, I said it. I like saying it. I’ll say it again: I’ll never be good. It’s just not something I’m suited for. That’s O.K. I’m good at other things".

It is just one more commercial perfume...so what? If you like it, be my guest to wear it and have fun...It is something that does not suit me...I prefer other things...

MITSOUKO EDP - GUERLAIN (1919) - UPDATED VERSION 2010 - FEMININE

MITSOUKO EDP

Photo credits: + Q Perfume Blog

Official Olfactive Notes - Bergamot, peach, jasmine, May rose, spices, oakmoss, vetiver, wood.

Notes by The Perfumed Dandy - petroleum, peach schnapps.

Reading Dandy's review of Mitsouko was indeed revealing. For years I have been trying to figure out what this fragrance was all about and how to review it, if so many have already written long essays about years before me...it becomes boring at one point...But somehow the idea came out, and I could not keep it to myself. So here it is: Mitsouko, as it is presented today, is a pin up girl from the 50's, coming alive out of a vintage calendar hung on a wall in a garage of a mechanic somewhere...she comes dressed in a yellow dress, red lipstick, shining black high heels, wearing a powdery perfume. The mechanic is under a car, full of grease and wearing a gray jumpsuit. The leaves are tied on his waist revealing a tight white dirty singlet. He is sweaty...you smell his sweat, the oil, the gasoline, her scent of peach lipstick, the powdery fragrance...
He sees her heels and slide to the side, moving away from the car. He follows his eyes up to her long beautiful legs and with a southern accent he smiles " How can I help you Ma'm?"...and before the engine gets hot...you guys take it from here, otherwise one might think this is a porn website...

For a compete review of a very interesting Mitsouko Flanker - Fleur de Lotus and more on Mitsouko Original scent...

and there is always Elvis...in case the fantasy did not work for ya!

To amazing Jeroen, a true hero!

Mona di Orio

Photo credit: + Q Perfume Blog

In 2010, Mona di Orio and Jeroen Oude Sogtoen revamped their brand "Mona di Orio Parfums" with an exquisite collection called Les Nombres D'Or, inspired by the GOLDEN RATIO, a divine proportion used in architecture and maths by masters such as Michelangelo and Da Vinci, known very well by Mona, as having herself, a background in Architecture.

As she explained at that time "Golden Ratio ... might be the key to understand beauty. Intrigued and attracted by this aesthetic theory, it let me imagine how to revisit some influential classics of the perfumery. Searching for the perfect proportions to reach a melodious harmony. Using the best raw materials, beautiful ingredients, precious gifts blessed with divine proportions. Close your eyes, open your nose and follow their mysterious and sensual sillages."

JEROEN

captured by the camera of Petrovisky & Ramone

A year later the brand had to face another challenge. In December of 2011 the in house perfumer and co-owner of the brand, Mona herself, passed away at very young age. It was a very sad moment for perfumery, for her family and for those who loved her. Many thought the brand was going out of business, and ran to buy her perfumes fearing they would not be sold anymore. Indeed it was a hard year for the brand, but her business partner and beloved friend Jeroen O. Sogtoen managed to transform grief into beauty, and made us all a promise to continue to tell Mona's stories and memories through her creations, with the unforgettable passion, elegance, and kindness that we all loved her for.

EAU ABSOLUE EDP by Mona di Orio

Photo credit: + Q Perfume Blog

A promise that he is, with all his heart, really managing to keep!

In 2013 the brand released a gourmand floral balsamic perfume around a joyous and sensual rose called Rose Etoille de Hollande, which I haven't reviewed yet.

For 2013, Jeroen brings Mona's love for the Mediterranean and one more delightful chiaroscuro composition that is a signature of her works.

Eau Absolue EDP is the newest fragrance of the collection to be launched this next April, and it comes with a combination of citrusy notes of Sicilian bergamot, clementine, petitgrain Citronnier, chinese litsea cubeba, Peruvian pink peppercorn accord, Egyptian geranium, Jamaican St. Thomas Bay leaf, vetiver Java & Tahiti, virginian cedar wood, musk and cistus labdanum.

It is a game of light and darkness, with zestful bright spiced citrusy notes and earthy, balsamic and nocturnal accords. freshness, transparency, joy and gentleness embraces sensuality, warmth and elegance.

For the passionates for fresh colognes this perfume will bring the same freshness and lightness of the citruses of an original cologne, but with the endurance and lasting power of an EDP.

The concept of redefining the structure of an eau de cologne by giving it a higher concentration was already brilliantly explored by Francis K with his fragrance Absolue pour le Matin EDP, and also presented by the brand Atelier Cologne with their Colognes Absulues, but Mona di Orio's Eau Absolue EDP stands out not only for the technical aspect of its structure. It has personality.

The citruses are not bubbling or sparkling (it could be because Mona loved champagne), but instead, they are shinny and summer-y. They are bright and vivid. Enlaced by pink peppercorns they last longer than most citrusy bouquets. Mandarine is the note that stands out for me.

Geranium and bay leaf is a combination that conquered my heart and brought a huge smile to my face. It is unique. I noticed it combined to create a metallic soapy tone to the fragrance, which I must say I love it (not secret here). Vetiver is a bit overpowering to my senses, I would prefer it tuned a bit down, but than it would not be Mona's. Guys will love this striking vetiver. It is overall outstanding.

When Jeroen asked me if I liked the fragrance, I told him I really loved it. And I meant it.

That should be taken as sincere compliment, because frankly, these days I find myself wondering if I will ever buy another perfume... and just when I thought that was a lost case for me, here comes this divine perfume!

Eau Absolue EDP is a gentle caress, a blowed kiss followed with a smile. It is Mona's absolutely cheerful elegance!

For more reviews of this collection - click HERE, HERE , HERE, HERE and HERE.

I can't think of anything else but Mona & Jeroen and this:

ENJOY YOU TOO XX!

Um passeio olfativo pela cidade de Nova Iorque - Parte I - High Line

Dicas de Velas Perfumadas Importadas para comprar no Brasil

In the Garden of Good and Evil Collection by Kilian

Um passeio olfativo por Nova Iorque - Parte II - The Meatpack District

MAD NYC opens Chandler Burr's Scent Exhibition

A teaser to make you go MAD!

Um passeio olfativo - Parte III - SOHO/NOLITA

Volutes Collection by Diptyque - Best of 2012

Esxence 2013

Perfume & Rain drops - fragrances for rainy days

Trouble with the Curve - PART ONE

Trouble with the Curve - PART TWO

The black code in fragrances - TREND RADAR

Eau de Fröehliche - Be my perfumed Valentine!

Tem gosto e cheiro para tudo

Random Picks - Kerosene

Random Picks - Belle au Parfum de Oud - Esteban

Random Picks - Pierre Balmain Amber Gris EDP

Random Perfume Picks - Mitsouko (updated version)

Eau Absolue EDP by Mona di Orio